Showing posts with label solar heating. Show all posts
Showing posts with label solar heating. Show all posts

Saturday, 1 May 2010

Cape Town’s new tariffs and charges (rates and taxes and electricity)

{Extracted from CityNews April 2010} The proposed new tariffs and service charges are set out in the draft budget. Water and sanitation charges will increase in line with inflation. However, electricity tariffs have risen sharply due to the Eskom increases, and solid waste removal charges have also risen to pay for new landfill and transfer station infrastructure.

Water and sanitation charges will increase in line with inflation, and property rates increases are in some cases below inflation. However, electricity tariffs have increased sharply due to the City being obliged to pass on the tariff increases granted to Eskom by the National Energy Regulator. Solid waste removal charges have risen to pay for new landfill and waste transfer station infrastructure.

The proposed service charge increases, given in the tables are:
• The property rate has dropped to 0,531 cents in the rand
• An average increase of 10% for water and sanitation
• An increase of 18% for solid waste removal
• An increase of 38,5% for solid waste disposal
• An average increase of 24,6% for electricity, based on Eskom’s increase of 28,9% for this year
• The first R200 000 of your property’s value is rates-free.



image
Water and sanitation tariffs 
Please note that the City has increased the number of billing categories, or ‘steps’, for water and sanitation.
These new steps are better suited to the volumes people actually use.
The first ‘Step 1’ – the free basic allocation – remains unchanged, but bigger volumes have been allocated into smaller blocks. The tariffs proposed in the budget relate to the new steps shown alongside.







image












Solid waste tariffs
There is a new charge, for ‘clean’ builder’s rubble. image














Electricity tariffs  image

These remain in three broad categories:
Lifeline’ – which caters for poorer people and has no service charge,
Domestic Low’ – with no service charge, and
Domestic High’ – which does have a service charge.

Examples of actual costs in each of the categories are given in the tables alongside.

How the electricity tariffs work
The tables below show what customers can expect to pay for electricity at the proposed new tariffs, and the examples explain what portion of purchases is made up of the free allocation, at the subsidised rate and at the normal rate.

Examples at the LIFELINE energy rate
• Person A buys R240 (including VAT) worth of electricity once per month.  For each purchase, he will receive 366,3 kWh, made up of 50 kWh free, 100 kWh at the subsidised rate, and 216,3 kWh at the normal rate.
• Person B buys R60 (including VAT) once a week. For the first purchase in the month he will receive 50 kWh free, and 90,6 kWh at the subsidised rate – a total of 140,6 kWh. On his second purchase he will receive 9,4 kWh at the subsidised rate and 66.9 kWh at the normal rate – a total of 76,3 kWh.  For the third and fourth purchase of the month he will receive 74,7 kWh – all at the normal rate. If one adds all four purchases together, he also receives 366,3 kWh in the month, the same as Person A.
• Person C normally buys R200 (including VAT) once a month.  For this he will receive 316,5 kWh made up of 50 kWh free, 100 kWh at the subsidised rate, and 166,5 kWh at the normal rate. However, in this particular month, Person C requires a small top-up amount and buys R40 worth of electricity.  Person C will receive 60,4 kWh for this purchase – charged at the normal rate – bringing the total energy purchased in the month to R240 – 366,3 kWh in total.image

Examples at the DOMESTIC LOW energy rate

This tariff is relatively simple. Whatever energy is purchased, the tariff remains the same and the value is a simple multiplication of tariff x units (kWh) purchased.
image

Examples at the DOMESTIC HIGH energy rate
• Person D buys 500 kWh of electricity four times a month. His normal account will contain two components: an energy charge to the amount of R455,85 and a service charge of around R52,50 for the week (seven days are used here – actual value will depend on the exact length of time between purchases).  Both of the purchases in the month (if equally spaced) will be identical.
• Person E buys 2 000 kWh of electricity on the first of the month, resulting in an energy charge of R1 823,40, and a service charge of either R225 (for a 30-day month) or R232,50 (for a 31-day month).
• Person F buys electricity once a year. He uses 24 000 kWh in the year, and will therefore pay R21 880,80 for energy for the year. He will also pay the service charge for 365 days, which will total R2 737,50 for the year.
Please note that the service fee is a daily fee and works out to be the same amount over a year, whether you buy once a week, once a month, or once a year.
image 


• For more information, contact the City’s call centre on 0860 103 089.

HTT comments:
Prices will increase on 01Jul 2010.  Pre-Paid customers: see this article to see if it’s worth while to do a bulk buy purchase ahead of the increase: If you have a pre-payment meter: FAQs answered by Eskom on radio 567CapeTalk and Saving 24.8% by loading your pre-payment electricity meter
Did you notice the 93.5% in the daily service fee for Domestic High users?  From R3.88 to R7.50 per day! That’s from R116 per month to R225, or from R1,416 per annum to R2,736 (gulp).
BTW: you are a ‘Domestic High’ user if you use more than 800 kWh per month (average).  See here for more info: Cape Town Electricity Tariffs

Saturday, 12 September 2009

Yippee: False advertising on www.solarquip.co.za has been removed – thanks to everyone involved

A friend took this issue up and emailed CapeTalk, Advertising Standards Authority of South Africa (ASA) http://www.asasa.org.za/ and SABS and it seems to have (eventually) worked.  SolarQuip have removed the logos from their web site.
The previous HTT article was posted on 20 May 2008, so it’s taken over 15 months to get the issue resolved.

Original article:  Beware of scammers using false logos eg: SolarQuip http://handytechtips.blogspot.com/2009/05/beware-of-scammers-using-false-logos-eg.html 

image 
Here are screen shots of the before and after:

Before (May 2008): image

After (Sept 2009):
image

Thanks to everyone involved!  :)




Wednesday, 20 May 2009

Beware of scammers using false logos eg: SolarQuip

Beware of the usage of similar but false logos: A colleague thought he was getting product that was SABS approved and services from the same company that was a member of an "Association" - he was wrong.

It looked like the SABS logo; and the web site stated they were a "Member Solar Energy Society of Southern Africa your Protection".

BUT, the SABS logo is different and their products are not SABS approved, and there's no association called "Solar Energy Society of Southern Africa" - it's called "Sustainable Energy Society of Southern Africa" http://www.sessa.org.za/.

Here are the logos (see for yourself here: http://www.solarquip.co.za/):
SABS logo: vs false logo used:
The SESSA "Sustainable Energy Society of Southern Africa" logo: vs non-existant ("Solar Energy Society of Southern Africa"):

I wonder what complaining to the Advertising Standards Authority of South Africa (ASA) http://www.asasa.org.za/ and SABS will result in?


I sympathise with my colleague and I too consider this to be false advertising of SolarQuip's products (solar panels and solar geysers) and services.

Mail them (Solarq@mweb.co.za) and let them know that this is not acceptable!
Tell your friends to watch out...

Maybe some bad advertising will make them change their tune??!!




Update on 16June2010:
Watch out or, at least, be aware: #WTF Geyser's element has just blown <3 years after installation... 5 year geyser warranty, but only 3 months on the element! #FFS #RipOff
http://www.xstream.co.za/warranty.htm

Tuesday, 29 April 2008

Why do I blog? I thought it was because I wanted to share information for the good of all, but I've just discovered that it "saves ME money"

Why do I blog? I thought it was because I wanted to share information for the good of all, but I've just discovered that it "saves ME money" - not "makes me money", not "saves others money" - it saves ME money.
The "makes me money" part is simple - Google Adsense places their "content-appropriate" ads on my blog and they pay me a small percentage of their advertising income based on the number of clicks that my readers find interesting.
So, how does it "save me money" you might ask?
Well, in my previous blogs about saving electricity I have tried to explain why it's necessary to install a time switch on your solar geyser and explained that without a time switch installed, electricity (not energy from the sun) will heat up the cold water faster than the sun can...... well, while keeping statistics on units/day usage, I discovered that my consumption wasn't giving the savings that I had expected!
In fact, since installing my solar panels last year, my electricity usage had not really gone down at all! In fact, at times, usage went up!
Here are some of the reasons that I have come up with:
1) when the new geyser was installed, the installer (in all his wisdom and 30 years of experience) installed the geyser with the thermostat set to 60 degrees Celsius (my old geyser was set to 50) - I reduced the thermostat setting to 35 degrees Celsius and reduced usage (from about 42 units/day to 34 units/day = 19% saving).
2) time switch was not working - there was a problem with the wiring and even though the time switch was "switching", the geyser was never disconnected from power. Watch this space for stats on how much I actually save with the time switch which is now working correctly.
So, bottom line, due to my keeping detailed statistics to report on this blog, I noticed that the energy usage was not going down and this caused me to investigate further and find the problems with the thermostat setting and the time switch wiring! So, thanks to you, and this blog, I have saved myself (and hopefully you) lots of money!
PS: it took me a while to figure out that our old geyser had "burst" - there was no "big bang", nor was there any water pouring from the ceilings, but there was (hot) water fast-dripping from the overflow pipe. Well, that dripping caused our electricity usage to go up drastically (114%)! So replacing the geyser reduced my daily units from 92 to 41 units/day)



Update on 16June2010:
Watch out or, at least, be aware: #WTF Geyser's element has just blown <3 years after installation... 5 year geyser warranty, but only 3 months on the element! #FFS #RipOff

Sunday, 6 April 2008

If you have a solar geyser, then make sure you install a timeswitch!

To further clarify my blog: Does a time switch on your geyser actually save electricity?, if you have a solar geyser then make sure you install a time switch!
Without a time switch installed, electricity (*not* energy from the sun) will heat up the cold water faster than the sun can.
With a time switch installed, *only* solar energy will be used to heat up the cold water - electricity will kick in if the time switch is set to use electricity for critical time periods (early in the morning and late at night).
See here for more details: Eskom info on using a time switch with solar panels?

*) Installing a time switch in a solar installation will:
1) ensure that electricity is not used on a sunny day (i.e. on a sunny day you would rather have a slower heating up of the water by the sun, rather than use electricity and solar to heat up the water faster) and
2) ensure that electricity is used so as to guarantee that there is hot water early in the early morning and, in late afternoon/night on cold/cloudy days.

Remember to also turn the temperature on the geyser's thermostat down! (mine is set to 35 degrees C, and it's fine i.e. this is the temperature of the water on cold/cloudy days, but on sunny days the temperature is much hotter due to the solar panel doing its job)






Update on 16June2010:
Watch out or, at least, be aware: #WTF Geyser's element has just blown <3 years after installation... 5 year geyser warranty, but only 3 months on the element! #FFS #RipOff

Friday, 14 March 2008

Does a time switch on your geyser actually save electricity?

This is the question everyone has been asking and I too have been wondering.
I have created an “ElectricityUsageCalculator” (Excel spreadsheet) for you to calculate your usage and where you can make savings.
In fact, in the quest for the answer I have taken the long path of reducing my household’s electricity consumption and I thought that I’d share this information…
Before I get to the detail, I’d like to thank the following people/organisations/forums for sharing their valuable information:
Why not pay these sites a visit?


Cutting to the chase:
OK, so some of you don’t really want to know how I got to the “findings”, you just want to know if turning your geyser off and on really saves you Rands, so here goes:
*) if you have a solar panels, then yes - installing a time switch on your geyser will definitely save you money (without time switch: electricity and solar will heat up the cold water, and so electricity will be used. With time switch: only solar will be used to heat up the cold water; electricity will kick in if the time switch is set to use electricity for critical time periods. See here for more details: http://www.eskomdsm.co.za/swh_4_9_timer.htm
*) if you don’t have solar panels, then you’ll probably not save a lot of money by installing a time switch: Niel says (see comment on 6th February 2008 @ 10h08: http://energycrisis.co.za/?p=56) that you’ll “only save electricity if you leave your geyser off for 2.5 days”; and “you can’t save electricity by switching a heater on and off, as the amount of energy required to keep it at a certain temperature for a given time and to heat it up again after that given time is the same.”
Again, referring to Niel's comment February 12th, 2008 at 1:01 pm: <> "...my geyser was on for 46 minutes over a 24hr period or basically for 1 minute 55 sec every hour..." <>
….rather insulate your geyser (using a geyser blanket) and hot water pipes to reduce the heat loss.
….but if the time switch is set to turn the geyser off during peak times, then you will help Eskom to reduce the peak loads and perhaps reduce the need to load-shedding…. But isn’t Eskom installing those ripple switches for this? {Yeah, but until then…. best we do our bit to make our lives easier!}
If you do want to save money try these steps (in the order listed):
*) turn down the temperature setting on your thermostat (mine is set to 35oC) – you know when it’s set right by the amount of cold water that you need to mix when you’re having a shower…. If you’re mixing a lot of cold water, then you know that your thermostat is set too high – you need to turn it down (colder), until you are mixing little or no cold water for your shower.
*) use less hot water (ie. Install a low‑flow shower head [I have an RST low flow one], and shower quickly) to save electricity – the less cold water that your geyser needs to heat up, the less electricity is used.
*) use the ‘Electricity Usage Calculator’ to see where you ‘spend’ your electricity.
I was amazed to see that my main “culprit” was not my geyser, but in fact my swimming pool pump! [thanks Tim Truluck for pointing this out to me!]
Don't edit the shaded cells....
Step 1) In the worksheet ‘PerHourCosts’: check the ratings (W) listed [column D] and adjust to your appliances' ratings;
(Note which appliance is the most costly to run per hour)
Step 2) In the worksheet ‘UsageCosts’: fill in the 'hours used per item per month' [column D];
(Note: 'Cost per item per month' - the high cost items is where you can save the most)
*) Lastly, use solar power to heat your geyser: install solar panels. If you are building a new house or if you replace your geyser, then install solar panels and a time switch.
Detailed explanations:
*) Electricity is used by a geyser each time the temperature of the water goes below the thermostat’s trigger temperature.
*) Refer to the worksheet ‘GeyserThermostat’ for the following explanations:
*) Assuming the water in the geyser is cold to start with, and the thermostat is set at 60oC, then the thermostat will turn on and allow electricity to flow to the geyser’s element which heats up the water [this costs about R2.30 per hour]. After about 65 minutes, the water temperature will be above 60oC and the thermostat will turn off and no electricity will be used.
*) When someone in the household decides to take a shower, the hot water exits the geyser and cold water replaces this hot water which forces the temperature to below the thermostat’s trigger temperature of 60oC. At this point, electricity will again be used to heat up the water to 60oC at which point the thermostat turns off again.
So, as more hot water is used, more electricity is used.
*) Heat loss will be small on modern (or geyser‑blanket clad) geysers and piping, but the lower the thermostat temperature, the lower the losses, and the lower the electricity that is used to get the water to the thermostat temperature. Comment from Dave on http://energycrisis.co.za/?p=56: “I turned my geyser down from 60oC to 50oC and saved 20% on my bill”
*) A solar‑only geyser will heat up the water more slowly (note: the thermostat plays no role in limiting the solar‑only upper temperature)
*) Installing a time switch in a solar installation will: 1) ensure that electricity is not used on a sunny day (i.e. on a sunny day you would rather have a slower heating up of the water by the sun, rather than use electricity and solar to heat up the water faster); 2) ensure that electricity is used so as to guarantee that there is hot water early in the morning and, in late afternoon on cold/cloudy days.
How do I find out how much electricity something uses?
Adapted from “Saving Electricity 101”: http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/howmuch.html
Look at the label - nearly everything you can plug into the wall has a label that says how much electricity it uses.
If the label only gives the number of Amps and not the number of Watts, then just multiply the Amps by 220 to get the number of Watts. (Amps x Volts = Watts. So a hot plate that uses 3 amps uses 3 x 220 = 660 Watts.
Note that if a device is powered by a transformer (one of those great big plugs), then the transformer has converted the electricity from AC to DC, so you need to multiply by the DC voltage, not the AC voltage of 220. For example, if the device says "INPUT 9V, 0.5A", then that's 9 volts x 0.5 amps = 4.5 Watts.
Another tip:
*) Remember to turn off your ‘plug’ circuit breakers when you’re in “load-shedding” mode – this will ensure that your appliances are not connected to Eskom when power is turned on again – remember, when power is turned on again, there is usually a surge (over 220V) which could damage your appliances. Leave a light turned on, so that you know when power has returned, then turn your ‘plug’ circuit breaker back on again.
An alternative would be to purchase surge protectors for your most expensive/vital appliances.



Update on 16June2010:
Watch out or, at least, be aware: #WTF Geyser's element has just blown <3 years after installation... 5 year geyser warranty, but only 3 months on the element! #FFS #RipOff

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